A time-tested active still causing a buzz in the cosmetic market is Honeyquat 50 PF. It is a substantive honey derivative that penetrates skin and hair due to its low molecular weight which enables it to moisturise skin and condition hair. Despite its quaternary nature, it is compatible with shampoo formulations and most polymers, making it easy to formulate with. While moisture keeps skin supple, cell renewal ensures a healthy supply of young skin cells to improve skin appearance even more. Multifruit™ BSC is a natural source of alpha hydroxy acids with proven cell renewal properties. Its low pH causes hair cuticles to lie flat to give a smoother, shinier appearance to hair.

Phytokeratin™ harnesses the power of plants with a low-molecular weight selection of proteins from corn, wheat and soy. These proteins have the same benefit to hair than keratin and provide a plant-derived alternative for those looking to move away from animal sourced ingredients. In break strength and stretch analyses, it was shown to improve the strength of chemically treated hair. This active is available in water-, oil- and alcohol soluble variants, as well as a quaternised version to improve substantivity to hair.

Another way of cutting costs is by reducing manufacturing costs, often through cold mixing.

SMECs (Sub-Micron Emulsion Concentrates) are a collection of concentrated formulas that enable users to create cold-mix sprays, lotions and creams. It is a versatile group of ingredients, which can also be used in the manufacture of wipes

Their small particle size gives an instant cooling sensation on the skin, while the composition leaves skin with an elegant feel.

SMEC Concentrate No. 1 PF is an appealing alternative to alcohol for fragrance applications, as it has been shown to enhance fragrance retention on the skin

Sensoquat 50 is a suitable companion to the SMEC range, although this is not its only application. It is a pre-neutralised, pre-dispersed polymer system that gives instant thickening and excellent aesthetics. Its quaternary nature makes it ideal for both hair and skin care applications, and makes it compatible with the quaternary compounds often found in hair care products. Our aMaloco Concentrates enable you to easily produce cold-mix lotions, creams and conditioners.

When thinking of cutting back, versatility of ingredients immediately comes to mind. What better example of versatility than Betafin BP 20, a multi-functional active, chemically known as trimethylglycine and derived from sugar beet. Its most well-known benefit is moisturisation, as it is a hygroscopic compound that attracts moisture to skin and hair. Everyday humectants like glycerine and propylene glycol attract and hold on to moisture, which can lead to them drying out hair and skin in drier climates. Betafin’s unique chemical structure makes it keen to share moisture with skin and hair cells and this leads to a continuous supply of moisture. It is suitable for hair, skin and body applications and has even shown efficacy in oral care products for reducing dry mouth. Its presence in formulations reduces tackiness and although it is not a foaming agent, it improves foam quality of surfactant products.

Being restricted in terms of raw material costs does not mean cutting all actives out of our formulations. This only yields ineffective products with no perceived consumer benefits. It rather forces us to think outside the box and come up with different solutions. It is said that in times of trouble we often see the most creative answers.

Lonza Personal Care would love to be part of your solution and invite you to contact your technical sales representative to discuss the many alternatives to your next product development.